How to "Un-Jam" your Tecre button making machine 

Before we get started with the instructions on how to un-jam your machine, take a look at the photos below and familiarize yourself with the names of the various parts of your button machine. Doing so will make it easier to follow the step by step instructions.

Jamming a button maker is very easy to do.  You can get a jam if you don't notice that two shells (fronts) or two mylar are stuck together.  Another thing that happens is that after you have put a shell image and mylar into the top die using the first press you get distracted..... the phone rings and then you go back and load the first die again, you press and kathump!  You've got a jam.

So as I say, it's easy to jam a button maker and it's not too difficult to unjam it.  Read on......

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Unjam your button machine

If your button machine has jammed, the information below will show you how to free it up.

In attempting to unjam your machine, DO NOT use a hammer or screw driver to pound or pry the metal parts of your machine. Doing so WILL damage your your dies!!

If you are unable to unjam your machine, or are uncomfortable following the steps listed below, you can swing by or return your machine to our office and have us un-jam it for you.

The three most common reasons that can cause a machine to jam are:

A. Placing more than one shell (the button front) into your machine.

B. Placing more than one mylar disc (the plastic) into your machine.

C. Going back to your button maker and forgetting that you already have a shell in the upper die.

You can sometimes "un-jam" a machine simply by moving the handle up and down several times in rapid succession.

If you are able to do so, try rotating the dies (without using force) so the upper die is above the crimp die (the die that holds the button back). Then move the handle up and down 5 or 6 times. If that action is going to free up your machine, 5 or 6 times should do the trick.

If it doesn't, or if you are unable to rotate the dies without using force, proceed to the next step.

If the previous step didn't work, the upper die is unable to return to it's normal position because a button is stuck in the upper die. And because the upper die is "stuck in the up position" you are unable to rotate the dies.

So what we need to do is to free the upper die assembly.

I recommend using the following strategy to accomplish this.

Take a piece of wood, such as a 1" x 2", 2" x 2", or a thick wooden dowel) and with your button machine sitting on a table or counter, position the piece of wood so it sits on top of the "Outer Ring" but doesn't cross over to the "Inner Plug". Hold the piece of wood length-wise and use a hammer to tap the edge of the wood (NOT the machine itself). What we are attempting to do is separate the outer ring from the inner plug. Doing this should loosen the stuck button part from the upper die.

It is recommended NOT TO FORCE OR PRY the dies apart, as this will damage them. Ease them apart without damaging your die.

Hopefully, this will have freed the jam and the dies can now swivel but you may still have button parts jammed up inside the upper die.  These need to be removed.  If you put your finger up inside the upper die you should be able to feel the screw hole.  If it's smooth you still have a button inside.

An awl is useful for removing jammed buttons also try this article.

 How to "Tune-up" a Tecre, red & black, button maker.

Firstly I personally do not believe in fixing stuff for the sake of it.  Fiddling with or dismantling your button maker is a bad idea.  These button machines are solid and well made and have a warranty - if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it!

So these button machines have proven to be extremely reliable, doing a little preventive maintenance, from time to time, can help to keep your machine operating smoothly  If used with care the following information will show you how to "tune-up" your button maker.

If for any reason you are uncomfortable following these instructions, give us a call or swing by and we will make arrangements for you to return your machine and have us do the tune-up your machine for you.

Don't simply try to pry apart the dies, if you have it jammed, as you will likely damage the dies.

Also, DO NOT attempt to dis-assemble your machine, as you most likely will be unable to re-assemble it and have it work properly and may well damage it in the process.

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Doing maintenance on your button making machine.

To do a tune-up, you will first need to gather a few items. You will need:
a 7/16" wrench, a can of silicone spray lubricant, a 3/16" allen wrench, and paper towels.

Step 1: Spray a small amount of silicone spray at each location marked by the arrow, in the photo below. (If you use too much silicone spray, it will end up on your button designs, which won't be good).

Step 2: Now take the handle and work it up and down 5 or 6 times. You want to work the silicone spray down into the upper crossbar that the two bolts go through (shown in the photo below) Also spray a little silicone where the handle attaches to your button machine. Do so on the other side of the handle, as well (not shown).

Step 3: Rotate the pick up die and crimp die so they are positioned as shown in the photo below. Take the paper towel you sprayed with a small amount of silicone spray and rub it around the beveled edge of the Crimp Die. Doing so will help prevent an issue where the mylar disc doesn't crimp tightly and has a bit of a "bubbled" look at the edge of your button. The silicone spray allows the mylar to slide smoothly.

You may repeat this last step anytime your mylars don't seem to be as tight as they should be..

 

Stick lubricant works very well if you are having issues with the mylar not crimping properly.

Stick lubricant available in your local hardware store or also online: here.

 

 

Step 4: Now rotate the pick up die so that the upper die is located directly above it. Then push the handle down all the way so the upper die slides into the center of the pick up die (not shown).

 

Step 5: Next, take the 7/16" wrench and tighten the two top bolts (shown below) until they are both snug. DO NOT overtighten these bolts, as doing so will damage your machine.

Step 6: Now spray a small amount of silicone spray onto a paper towel and spread it around the outside of the inner plug on the upper die (shown below). Doing so will make it easier for the outer ring to slide up and down during the button-making process.

And spray a little silicone spray on the base plate on which the dies rotate (shown below). Doing so will make it easier for you to rotate the dies as you are making buttons. Again, not too much or you will get it on your hands and on your buttons.

Step 7: Now turn your machine over and use the 7/16" wrench to tighten both brass colored bolts (in the photo below). Make them tight, but DO NOT overtighten them, as doing so will damage your machine.

Step 8: And finally, find an allen wrench that fits inside the "Flat Head Bolts". First slightly loosen the Flat Head Bolts (see image above) and then snug them down. DO NOT overtighten them, as doing so will damage your machine.

That's all there is to it. Your button machine should now work as good as new!

If it doesn't, or if you are uncomfortable following these instructions, give us a call and we will make arrangements to have you return your machine to us and we can do the tune-up for you.

Under no circumstances should you attempt to dis-assemble your machine.

I found an article online that explains how to create buttons using Photoshop.  This is not how to create button artwork, not how to complete a template to create buttons - BUT IT IS HOW TO CREATE great 3D button images for advertising your buttons in your online store.  They have to have a great 3d feel.  They must look like you can pick them up.  Here is a method using photoshop to do that.  

Don't use this artwork tutorial to make buttons but use it to advertise buttons on your blog or website. Note the 3d feel in the buttons below.

Actual artwork that you print out to cut and put in a button would look like this:

   The outer line is the cutline.  Some of the outer area will be lost as it folds around the back of the button.  The final button will be this size:

Some of the area outside the black line will be visible on the finished button.  The gloss and shine on a finished button comes from the mylar or plastic that covers and holds the button together, making it waterproof.  The curve of the finished button helps the shine and is of course actually 3d.

This tutorial will illustrate you how to create some little Buttons in Photoshop using a couple of layers and one interchangeable image layer. You can also download the needed the sample PSD at the bottom of this tutorial.

This is a simple task designed mainly for the beginners. So they could finish this task in only 30 minutes. So let’s jump into this awesome tutorial and get benefited!

Here's the link!

Free Designing and Editing Software GIMP - Alternative to Photoshop Inkscape - Alternative to Illustrator   YouTube Tutorials for using GIMP and Inkscape

Free Design Tools and Content Free Fonts - DaFont.com  Free Stock Photos - Stock.Xchng

If you have found any useful resources or methods that have made your buttons better or have tips on graphic design, button design or button making then tell the Button Guy.  He can then pass it on!!

 

 We have a limited number of button makers that we are selling with a shipping rebate.

 

 

 All products in this category qualify for a shipping rebate.

1. Place your order

2. Choose and pay for your order and shipping method. 

3. ENTER COUPON CODE: Qualifies for Shipping rebate!! Ship me extra buttons!

4. We will  rebate your shipping cost with free button parts equivalent to the value of shipping you have paid.

So buy a button maker that qualifies for this offer, pay $10 - $20 - $30 - Whatever the shipping cost charged we will refund in free button parts so the shipping is actually free - paid for in extra buttons!!

Multisize button makers sounds great.  A button maker that makes different sized buttons because it has interchangeable dies - sweet idea!

But the reality is not so sweet...........

Problems with multi-size button makers are many.  The advantages of multi-size button makers are few, in fact I can't think of any but if you have bought one and see an advantage let me know.  I would love to hear about it.

1) Most multi-size button makers including the badge-a-minit use a plastic base for the dies.  This is problematic, as the plastic wears quickly and the button makers no longer line up.  This also applies to some of the made in China machines.

Badge-A-Minit: 3-in-1 Badge-A-Matic Combo  $1099 on sale!	$1699 on sale with cutters & parts.

 

2) Price!  The badge-a-minit machine is the same price as 3 standard button makers!!

3) Button parts -  Badge-A-Minit takes non-standard button parts up to 300% more expensive than standard button parts.and also certain chinese machines use button sizes with European mm dies.  Also non-standard.

4) And for me the biggest point is that button making is labour intensive.  One machine with multi dies means only 1 person can work at a time and you have to keep messing with the dies.  

Give me 3 different machines any day!

Question from Kelona 05/03/2012

Hi Button Guy! What is the difference between the pin-back button sets that come in 3 pieces (shell, mylar, pin back) vs. four pieces (shell, mylar, collet with separate pin? I notice some companies sell both. What is the purpose of the 4pc set? How is it used? and why do companies sell both?

Firstly here are some photos to see what we are discussing:

PIN-BACK BUTTON PARTS WITH PIN ALREADY INSERTED
SPRING PIN BUTTON PARTS USING A SPRING PIN THAT IS INSERTED AFTER MAKING THE BUTTON.

 

Standard pin-backs are only available for 1-1/4" buttons or larger. Spring Pins come standard with buttons smaller than 1-1/4" so that is the 1" and 7/8" button sizes.  They have Spring Pin backs only.  This is actually because the pin-back pins are too big for 1" or smaller buttons.

 Spring pins are also made for the 1-1/4" and 2-1/4" sizes and I think it is simply because people like and want them.  I see no real advantage for the end-user as pinbacks tend to stay on better and longer than spring pins.  Also spring pin buttons take longer to make as adding the spring pin is an additional step.  Spring pins are in some cases slightly cheaper because the manufacturer does not pay to pin the back..... the end-user does it for them.

 So if you have a button maker that is 1-1/4" or larger you have the choice of pin-back or spring pin.  If your button maker is 1" or smaller you have no choice.

 If anyone out there sees an advantage to spring pins that I have missed do let me know!! But personally, when they are available I would go for pin-backs (with the built in pin).

 

-----Original Message-----

From: KELONA [mailto:shopifycontactform@outofthesandbox.com]

Sent: March-05-12 9:00 AM

To: The Button Guy - People Power Press

Subject: Message from KELONA

 

Name: KELONA

Message:

 What is the difference between the pin-back button sets that come in 3 pieces (shell, mylar, pin back) vs. four pieces (shell, mylar, collet with separate pin? I notice some companies sell both. What is the purpose of the 4pc set? How is it used? and why do companies sell both?

 

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Submitted from: http://peoplepowerpress.org/pages/about-us

 

 We just put a $100 coupon online.  Use it against any of the used or refurbished button making kits.

Coupon code:  $100 discount       (Expires March 1st 2012 so hurry!!!)

Checkout the used & refurbished button making kits page.